On the wrist, these Baume & Mercier Capeland models are comfortable and easily attractive. While not the most original models in the world, they don’t need to be justified to anyone. Detailing is very good and the case construction is solid. I like some of the little details such as the relief logo on the crown, and the style of the chronograph pushers. You get the feeling that Baume & Mercier really wanted to create a global retro sport watch with the newer Capeland collection, which they do pretty well. Plus, I think they did an admirable job offering a lot of color choices for all types of consumers.
While Baume & Mercier continues its modern quest for an image and direction, they are still at least producing good quality relatively affordable Swiss watches. The Capeland collection is in the $4,000 range, which while not actually cheap, is still a number that the brand’s target demographic is more than comfortable with. More details on the .
“HyperChrome” sounds like a pretty cool name if you ask me. That could be the name a neat video game or anime TV show. But no, for 2012 the HyperChrome is going to be a new collection of watches from. In this article I am debuting two of the new HyperChrome watches, but according to Rado there will be about 27 varieties this year alone!
The HyperChrome asserts Rado’s key strength as a producer of quality ceramic watches. Available in black and white ceramic variants, Rado uses some sophisticated technology to make nicely formed ceramic parts. The case for example is a monocoque (single) piece, with hardened steel sidings. Hardness rating for them is 1,fake cartier watches,250 Vickers. It comes in a few styles and sizes for both men and women.
Rado has learned over the last few years that many of its key designs (many thematically unchanged since the 1980s) are a bit too distinct for the modern mass market. I think that a lot of their core pieces will stick around, but they are really working on spicing up the collection with more mainstream designs. Rado was the first brand to really make something of the ceramic watch, but it took Chanel to highly popularize the material. Learning a few lessons from Chanel as well as other brands, Rado is pushing forward to become a major brand internationally once again.
An interesting design note that Rado mentions is that the Rado anchor logo placed under 12 o’clock actually moves. I assume it spins around like a tiny rotor if I understand their language correctly. If that is true then I think it will be fun and unique element to the collection. The cases are really quite nice and I enjoy what Rado is doing mixing metal and ceramic parts. The side of the HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph XXL is just very neat looking. Crystals are of course sapphire, and the cases are water resistant to 100 meters.
This HyperChrome Chronograph comes with a Swiss ETA 2894-2 automatic chronograph movement while the HyperChrome Automatic contains an ETA 2681 automatic movement. While I don’t know too much about the rest of the watches I do know that there will be additional case size options. All will be in either black or white ceramic, and there will be automatic and quartz movement options available. There will also be models of the HyperChrome with diamond decoration. The bracelets further look appealing – and according to Rado they have titanium deployment clasps.
Overall it seems like Rado is starting off 2012 properly with their watch and the HyperChrome. Two product families with universal appeal and good use of the brand strengths and history.
In addition to a slew of many other salivation-worthy watches, 2013 greets us with this new version of the well-known and pretty darn cool Christophe Colomb. Now a staple of the brand’s “Academy” collection of more complicated watches, the Christophe Colomb has been executed in a number of versions. Zenith enthusiasts will recall that the history of the watch’s gimble-style escapement assembly started a while ago with the Defy Xtreme Zero-G Tourbillon watch that pre-dated the Christophe Colomb collection. When Mr. Dufour took over Zenith a few years ago he re-purposed the unique complication into something much more interesting and desirable.
Zenith will be the first one to point out that the escapement mechanism is not in fact a tourbillon. A true tourbillon is an escapement that rotates on its own axis. Many things which are called tourbillons are not. In this case, the escapement is designed inside of a cage which is meant to remain upright by being weighted down and mounted on a gyroscopic-style gimble to the movement. It playfully moves around as you turn and spin the watch. It is quite cool to look at and a miniature technical marvel that requires many parts to complete.
The second most noteworthy element of the Christoph Colomb is the rather noticeable sapphire crystal bubble that protrudes on both the top and bottom of the case. This of course exists to allow for the escapement assembly to have space in which to move around. The number one question I get about this is whether or not it is comfortable to wear. I was extremely dubious myself at first, but after wearing a few iterations of the watch I can honestly say that you don’t feel it. That is the bottom part of the bubble on the rear of the watch. The top bubble is… well a large bubble. It allows for a fascinating view into a fascinating movement and is simply something to be aware of and avoid knocking into things.
No matter how many times I am fortunate enough to play with this watch I am still amused and enchanted by it. In this newest version it is even better. The design and skeletonization remind me a bit of Breguet aesthetics. I think many of you will find that as well. Called the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane, this is most certainly the finest of the Christophe Colomb models yet. Why? Well it has to do with how it looks and what goes in to it.
Previous versions of the Christophe Colomb featured a range of features and dial changes. One for example had an equation of time complication, a feature which for me is worthless. Here Zenith goes back to the basics offering features we want, and a movement enhancement that at least I love. In addition to the “gravity module” escapement, the Hurricane has a fusee and chain complication. My interest in the little constant force mechanism made up of a conical cam and small bicycle chain endures… especially in this watch. I don’t know if this is the first time Zenith has attempted the fusee and chain complication, but this is the first time I can think of that they have. Breguet for instance has made a few of them, which is another reason why there is a resemblance for me.
You’ll notice that the fusee and chain assembly are very prominent and actually partially under the time dial. Thus, you’ll get to notice it each time you read the time. In addition to being skeletonized, the assortment of the features on the dial is particularly convenient for visual appreciation. In my opinion, because Breguet has had more experience with these types of open movements and dials, their pieces are slightly better decorated and finished on the movement surfaces. That is to be expected, but the Christophe Colomb is nevertheless a very good achievement for Zenith featuring a beautiful set of features and visual balance.
A 45mm wide, the 18k rose gold case of this limited edition watch is nicely polished and weighty on the wrist. It does not feel overly large though. Inside the watch is a Zenith made El Primero caliber 8805 manually wound movement. Because it is an El Primero, the escapement does indeed operate at a higher 36,000 bph (5 Hz) operating speed. That is interesting, especially since even tourbillons don’t always operate at even 28,800 bph. The movement is complicated and no doubt requires immense skill to assemble. The movement is separated into three main parts which include the main movement, the gyroscopic carriage, and the chain. The number of parts in each is 354, 173, and 585 respectively. Just fathom how long it takes to assemble the 173 part escapement assembly without damaging parts and making the entire thing work.
Functionally, the caliber 8805 is basic but satisfying. In addition to the time dial there is a subsidiary seconds dial, and a power reserve indicator. That is pretty much all you need. The rest of the watch’s features are for mechanical fun. For this reason offering a skeletonized version of the Academy Christophe Colomb makes so much sense. Though I still don’t quite understand the “Hurricane” part of the name.
I tend to wonder what types of people wear watches such as this full time? Are there such people, and does a timepiece such as this have what it takes to survive the daily grind and still serve as a reliable time teller? To be honest I don’t know. Zenith might not even know. I sat with Jean-Frederic Dufour as we discussed the piece and other new happenings at Zenith. He sat wearing a pair of sport watches – one on each wrist from the brand. Zenith is doing quite well and their prices are quite fair for their mid-level watches. All Zenith timepieces contain in-house movements whose designs these days are mostly spot on. I also like to point out that Zenith is among the few brands that seems to consistently make watches with appropriately sized hands.
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