Being 25 and into watches does not always go together. Watches are inherently very expensive, and the cost of admittance into the hobby can be overwhelming. It is a hobby and passion of appreciation and style. You have to appreciate the beautiful, recognize the handsome, and critique the flawed. Few of us are hands on in anyway. Meaning we do not fix or modify watches, not do we really understand the inner workings for the most part.
Being “into watches” is really about being able to appreciate and recognize achievements in utility and design. As I will try to illustrate over time, making a nice watch is very hard to do. Many of the watches I criticized for a long time, I have recently come to appreciate for their classic looks and on going charm. Further, some things which appear nice at first often end up losing their novelty and on going appeal.
Much more to come soon.
Fueled by an unshakable love for horology and a general curiosity for intricate things, Ariel Adams founded aBlogtoWatch in 2007 as a means of sharing his passion. Since then, ABTW has become the highest trafficked blog on luxury timepieces, and Ariel has become a contributor to other online publications such as Forbes, Departures and Tech Crunch, to name just a few. His conversational writing style and inclusive attitude brings a wider appreciation for watches the world over, and that’s just the way he likes it.Follow me on Google+
It’s worth noting here that the Seamaster 30 is not to be confused with the Seamaster 300, a dive watch first introduced in 1957. It was this year.
With basic models available for under $1,000, the Seamaster 30 offers solid value relative to design, movement, and brand heritage. The range of models, from simple time-only watches to rarer MoD-inspired pieces, offer interesting options for both beginners and niche collectors looking to develop or expand personal collections.
Friday March 3, 2012
HODINKEE is one of the most widely read wristwatch publications in the world. Launched in 2008 by then 25-year-old Benjamin Clymer, the site quickly gained notoriety for earnest looks at some of the industry¡¯s most interesting, and occasionally forgotten timepieces.
Friday March 3, 2012
HODINKEE is one of the most widely read wristwatch publications in the world. Launched in 2008 by then 25-year-old Benjamin Clymer, the site quickly gained notoriety for earnest looks at some of the industry¡¯s most interesting, and occasionally forgotten timepieces.
This bad-boy was released at SIHH 2011, and just yesterday, I got the chance to see the very first one delivered to the United States up at the VC boutique on 64th and Madison in NYC. This 42mm pink gold tourbillon has a tremendous power reserve of approximately 336 hours, thanks to four barrels mounted in coupled pairs, which all unwind at the exact same rate.
But back to the dial side of the watch. The slightly pearlescent dial is subtle but still draws in the eye. A combination of small black markers for the minutes, luminous dots and polished triangle-shaped batons for the hours, and arabic numerals at 12, 6, and 9, makes the dial extremely easy to read in any situation. If executed poorly, this prolific marking could have been busy and cluttered, but Jaeger-LeCoultre has unsurprisingly pulled it off effortlessly. A subtle date window at 3 o’clock finishes things off.
The earliest examples at the Speedy Tuesday get together were some reference 2915’s, the same watch I explained a bit . These first series Speedmasters, which are the only vintage Speedies with broad arrow hands and a steel bezel, are rarer than hen’s teeth, and can be quite costly. 2915’s in original condition often sell above $60,000. The watch above belonged to a collector, and though it had a replacement steel bezel, it was really just a gorgeous watch. What is also interesting about it is the leaf minutes counter hand had all but completely brassed, giving it a great look you don’t often see. The other 2915 in the house belonged to the Omega museum, and it was just gorgeous (as seen above).
Two beautiful Citizen Campanola watches available on eBay now. Each a rarity and not often available in the US. I have discussed the Citizen Campanola line at great length on this site. You know of my affinity for them. I never thought I would love a quartz watch this much. The bottom line is that you can get an amazing level of complication and beauty for a price so far below what a comparable mechanical watch is that it makes Swiss watch producers stutter.
The Grand Complication is my favorite of the two, and of the watches I have reviewed here as I own one! Check out my . It is the watch I am wearing as I write these words, and brings me continuing joy each time I gaze upon it. Forget the generous compliments I get on this large and attractive watch, it does just about everything you could ask for.
The Citizen Campanola Perpetual Calendar model takes a different approach, with a full perpetual calendar and an indicator of the elapsed years. It will keep an accurate calendar for over 100 years. Each watch is hand made with meticulous precision. I always get a smile on my face to see these as they represent the pinnacle of what can produce in Japan.
Check out the eBay auction for the (ended), and the auction for the .
See all ,http://www.easternmarket-dc.org/img/uc/English/googlebot/page_5.html.
Here is one of those very classy Citizen Campanola watches that I would love to own. This is a model number AG6210-03E, sporting a curvy tonneau case, and a full perpetual calendar laid out in avant garde Campanola fashion. Like all excellent Citizen Campanola watches, this represents the best Japanese watch company Citizen has to offer in these hand decorated and handmade watches. I’ve discussed these watches at length, and you can read my many thoughts on them in .
Aside from the meticulously polished case and attractive face, the features in this Campanola are useful. This version focuses on the calendar providing the month, year, date, and date of the week. Further, the calendar is perpetual, meaning it takes into consideration leap years and the different amount of days months have. Lastly,Replica cartier watches, the watch has synchronized 24 hour hand built into the the seconds subdial. Citizen is able to lay out this information in a way with lovely intrigue.
I really love the hands on this watch. With triangular geometric precision they travel around the face’s rounded and squared shapes. Interaction with the roman numerals is good, and legibility is clear despite the intense level of information.
Right now on eBay, a fine example of the Citizen Campanola AG6210-03E is available offered with some nice extras. One thing this watch comes with is a metal bracelet that I’ve never seen offered with this style Campanola. I’d love to see how this looks on the watch. Further, the watch also comes with two other lizard skin straps that are one of the best compliments a Campanola can have, as well a black calf strap. So you’d get 3 straps and 1 metal bracelet. The auction opens at $699, which is an excellent deal for the number of items, the watch, and the condition. I know it will find a good owner.
See .
aBlogtoWatch?received?a note from today on the appointment of a new brand CEO. The news release from Rolex was a scant, one line document on official letterhead that explained Jean-Frederic Dufour would be appointed as the CEO of Rolex SA in Geneva. Mr. Dufour would be replacing Gian Riccardo Marini.
Many in the watch industry are familiar with Jean-Frederic Dufour as the CEO of watches,tag heuer replica, a position he will now be leaving. Zenith is part of LVMH, and after a successful time there since 2009, he is making the ultimate trip up the ladder to being in a top leadership position at Rolex.
Mr. Dufour is a known friend and proteg¨¦ of the famed Jean-Claude Biver, former CEO of Hublot, who continues to retain a position of influence at the brand and who now has a more senior role guiding the watch brand divisions of LVMH (which also includes Zenith and TAG Heuer, among others). Mr. Biver greatly assisted Mr. Dufour when he started at Zenith and most agree that their combined work has turned Zenith into a brand which has recaptured and in many ways exceeded much of its former glory.
Rolex is known for having relatively long-standing CEOs and the stepping down of Gian Riccardo Marini is unique since he was appointed in 2011. The release from Rolex suggests that the stepping down of Mr. Marini and the appointment of Mr. Dufour was “in agreement” with Mr. Marini.
Ironically, I just posted an . The company is in very good shape as Jean-Frederic steps in¨Cso it will be his job to continue and maintain that success.? Rolex is known for being relatively secretive so it is unclear what type of role Mr. Dufour will now have in dealing with the media as the CEO of Rolex. In the past, aBlogtoWatch has sat down with Mr. Dufour to talk product and the watch business. He is a very capable fellow and of course we wish him success in his new position leading Rolex.
Among the traditional watch makers now delving into the world of Bluetooth-enabled smartwatches, has produced rather solid products thus far. In 2011 Casio released the , which marked a new strategy for the maker of the world’s arguably most versatile watches. The concept was a hybrid approach, in combining what people loved about G-Shock with the added functionality of Bluetooth communication with your phone. Now Casio ups the ante even further with the updated and improved GB-6900B? (GB-6900B -1) and larger GB-X6900B (GB-X6900B-1) collection of watches that will markedly improve upon the functionality of G-Shock Bluetooth watches. Inside the watches is Casio’s new “Generation 2 Engine” which offers a compelling list of features that you’ll actually use.
Before we discuss aspects such as the design of the watch,Replica cartier, it is important to discuss exactly what the GB-6990B and GB-X6900B watches can do with Bluetooth and the new Generation 2 Engine Japanese quartz movement. Casio is excited to announce that the watches can now be used to control your smartphone’s music player and you can also control your watch from your phone. As far as we know these are novel features.
Casio has no doubt been looking closely at how GB-6900 and other G-Shock Bluetooth watch owners have been using their watches, as well as the lifestyle of those customers in trying to determine the best way that a G-Shock and phone can live together. Casio does not strictly pen the G-Shock Bluetooth watches as “smartwatches,” and we aren’t sure why, though it is true that these timepieces are closer to traditional watches than they are to the new generation of touch-screen timepieces with highly customizable screens. Rather, Casio prefers the term “Bluetooth Smart” to describe the nature of the GB-6900B and GB-X6900B watches.
Using Bluetooth profile 4.0 (claimed to be a low-power consumption communication method) these new G-Shock watches offer the following list of Bluetooth features in addition to Casio’s legacy roster of G-Shock functions such as a chronograph, countdown timer, world time, alarm, calendar, and blacklight:
It is not often that one gets to handle and spend time with a watch of such horological?importance.?In my recent visit to the Isle of Man with (that you can?), Roger asked me if I wanted to see something special. I did not know what he had in mind, being that I thought that everything he produced at his studio was special already.
Yet, it was only when he retrieved this watch from the safe that I found out why he was grinning so much. He knew that what he had in his hand was so rare and historically important that it would send a watch nerd like me straight into horological heaven.
What was it? Well, what can I say but that I was holding in my hand, the?George Daniels Co-Axial Chronograph watch, the very same one that had been part of the George Daniels Sotheby’s auction that was held in November 2012. This watch attained a hammer price of 385,250 GBP, and was produced by George Daniels to demonstrate the viability of the Co-Axial escapement in wristwatch form.
So why was the watch in Roger’s possession? Well, as it had been in storage for a long time prior to being sold, it had been sent in to be serviced at the studio by the lucky owner. That made sense really, as no one else in the world could?conceivably?be more qualified than the protege of the master himself.
First presented as part of a model in Basel in 1986, the watch has a 42mm wide?18K yellow gold case housing a four minute tourbillon with?Daniels?slim Co-Axial escapement and a compact chronograph mechanism.
Dial side, this watch features a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, a constant seconds indicator at 4 o’clock, and the chronograph indicator at 8 o’clock. The chronograph indicator is special in that there are two hands, counting minutes and seconds up to an hour. Placing the minutes and seconds together helps to make the dial less cluttered in keeping with the?symmetry?of the watch. The chronograph pushers are off to a less common position, the left side of the case, and the crown is mounted at the top, between the upper lugs.
Turning the watch over and looking at the display back is the view that Daniels himself had wanted to impress the Swiss watch industry with.?At bottom center, we find a tourbillon, but unlike most, this one makes a complete revolution every four minutes. The Co-Axial escapement is just visible under the tourbillon carriage, itself under a polished steel bridge. A mono-metallic?beryllium?copper two-arm balance with gold adjusting weights completes the carriage,http://www.ckm.gen.tr/rolex/page_9.html, regulated with a?free?sprung?over coil?balance?spring.
To the right of the tourbillon carriage, we find the special compact chronograph mechanism that Daniels invented, squeezed into that little space that is not normally used. The purpose of placing it there was so as to not have the chronograph mechanism covering the view of the movement, (like most?chronograph?modules), and to make the overall case thinner. The mechanism for the power reserve neatly balances the chronograph mechanism by being on the left of the tourbillon.
When I was operating the chronograph, I noticed that the minute counter moved leisurely into place after the seconds hand touched the zero mark. There was something quite “gentlemanly” about the way that it moved, prompting me to ask Roger if this was intentional, as the hand didn’t snap to the next index like other chronographs. Roger replied that he didn’t know if that was intentional, but during the service, he would look at the mechanism to find out. I personally felt that this little detail, if intentional, actually had more character and would not be surprised if?Daniels had designed it this way.
It was certainly a?marvelous?experience looking at this watch in such great detail. As the only piece of its kind that Daniels made, it was interesting to see the fineness and the little details that it contained. The engine turned dial, complete with eccentric chapter ring and Roman numerals was just a treat to look at under a loupe. As I had mentioned in my previous article on Roger Smith, the hand crafted nature of the dial was just a marvel to behold, with its?idiosyncrasies?and character.
Roger himself, in undertaking the servicing of this watch, will be studying it very carefully to note the aspects of the movement that can only be discerned from actually working on it.?Apparently Daniels stuffed this watch, along with a few others, into a drawer somewhere and promptly forgot about it. Roger explained to me that it was because after completing a watch, Daniels’s attention would focus elsewhere, moving on to create something new.
As you can see from the photos below, the service has actually begun. (More photos in the Gallery)Dis-assembly for Service – Hand RemovalDis-assembly for Service – Dial RemovalDis-assembly for Service – Removal of Tourbillon
All in all, I’m glad of the time I had to have a close look at this watch, as it will no doubt disappear from view into a private collection soon. Thank you Roger Smith for this?opportunity and may I wish the lucky buyer an enjoyable ownership experience of this very special watch.
Like many watches that I review on aBlogtoWatch, I took my time with the Viking. Sure it frustrates brands when it takes several months or longer to review a watch, but the honest truth is that we are rather backed up and go as fast as we can, publishing a full hands-on? “wrist time” review once or sometimes twice a week. The benefit, however, is that when I review a watch, I get a lot of time to consider it and mull over it. My experience with this indie dive watch is a perfect example.
Before sitting down to write this review, I revisited my video review of the Tempest Viking that we published on our YouTube channel last year. I do this a lot in order to remind myself?about how I felt about a watch closer to the beginning of a review period. What I found is that my review of this watch is pretty useful to listen to: I not only review this particular independent dive watch but actually discuss the entire segment¨CI suggest you give it a listen. So now that I have spent time wearing the Viking Tempest on and off how do I feel about it?
Tempest is a brand I had been in contact with prior to them having a completed product. I experienced the founder (Ben) going from a concept phase to a completed product and having to change his mind a bit a few times during the process. Like many independent watches, the Tempest Viking represents one person’s idea of a dream watch, that they toiled to put together given the resources available to them. There is a good and bad side to this. The good side is that the result is a very pure form of timepiece in the sense that it is a watch made specifically to satisfy a single watch lover’s desires. Love it or hate it, you have to appreciate that a single person struggled to bring their dream to market¨Cand their own wrist.
The bad side is that, unlike large companies, small independent watch makers lack large budgets, marketing plans, deep industry connections, and the experience of having made watches for years (for the most part). So what you get is often a dream and a compromise and these range from pitiful shells of their own potential to truly impressive timepieces that combine a load of features for a fair price. The Viking is much closer to being the latter.
I don’t necessarily know why dive-style watches are the most common indie watches out there, but they certainly are. Watch guys love the idea of creating their own ultimate tool watch, which often takes the form of a diver. The Tempest Viking certainly epitomizes the concept of one person wanting to throw in as many ideal features as possible. There really is a lot to the Viking, and it is rather unlike much of the competition. That starts with the uniquely designed, massive 45mm wide case.
That isn’t to say that all 45mm wide cases are massive,http://www.easternmarket-dc.org/img/uc/English/googlebot/page_4.html, but this one is. It is 52mm lug to lug and 17mm thick. Actually, that is the thin version. The watch comes with two sapphire crystal options; one is flat while the other is a “super dome crystal.” So, the thickness of the Viking case ranges from 17mm thick to 22mm thick. That is a really thick watch, for sure. It wears large on the wrist given the length of the watch and how tall it is. It is also heavy¨Cwhich is a blessing for those that love chunky watches and a warning to those who do not. All of this, however, is part of the Viking’s rather massive water resistance rating of 2000 meters. Most professional dive watches are “only” water resistant to 300 meters. Is anyone going to take this watch down to 2000 meters? That is highly unlikely, but we are currently in the world of fantasy performance¨Cso it really sounds cool.
The Viking case is also high detailed with inset sides, a complicated crown, and a lot of little features that make it more interesting than most large watches. Even the three-link bracelet has interesting angles to it that prevent it from being just another big dive watch. The case is available in brushed steel, but also in black PVD-coated steel, which adds a totally different look. The lugs and bracelet links each use hex-screws versus normal ones, but thankfully Tempest includes a tool in the box.
Around the dial is a pretty hefty looking rotating diver’s bezel, and it is among the more impressive elements of the design. Tempest really wanted a bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, and that is what they got. The core bezel is fully lumed with minute markers, and over that Tempest places a sapphire crystal ring which is highly scratch resistant. This is a feature you’ll not find in any watch at this price that I am currently familiar with.
There is marketing and then there is brilliant marketing. Go shopping for watches and you may find yourself discovering a new goldfish bowl. The large Spanish watch group Festina (and brand of course) has recently started putting water-filled clear plastic bags on shelves with the newest versions of their Profudno dive watches in them. This isn’t the first time a watchmaker has put a water resistant watch actually in water, but as far as we know it has never before been done like this. The brilliant concept is thanks to a Berlin-based agency called Scholz & Friends.
“Profundo” translates from Spanish into “deep.” While these watches aren’t deep under water, the message here is that they can stay in water for apparently very long lengths of time and be perfectly OK to be removed from the bag and be put on your wrist. It helps that the bags are filled with distilled water. What I like is that the retail packaging totally sells the concept of the watch. Nothing is said on the front except the name of the brand and the slogan “engineered for water,” which has clearly been adopted from slogan of “Engineered for Men.”
The Festina Profundo 6692 watch is likely a brand new model as it doesn’t seem widely available yet. Coming in a few dial styles, the Profundo is 42mm wide in steel and water resistant to 200 meters. The dive-style watch has a rotating diver’s bezel and comes in orange, yellow, blue, and black dial colors. Inside the watch is a Japanese Miyota quartz movement. The divers strap is either silicon, plastic, or rubber. We aren’t quite sure since Festina merely refers to the material as “gummy.”
Will other watchmakers follow suit? Perhaps. Though it is important to recall that the Profundo is a relatively inexpensive timepiece, and we don’t expect to see $5,000 dive watches sitting for months in water. But just imagine you are a customer in a watch store and see a watch in a bag filled with water. Your inclination is going to be to pick it up, see that the watch is working,Replica watches, and examine it for rust. Assuming all is good it does send a powerful message about durability and utility.
The Festina 6692 (F6692) watch should be available more widely soon. We’d buy one and leave it in the bag as decoration. The collection includes the F6692/1 (black dial), F6692/2 (blue dial), F6692/3 (yellow dial), F6692/4 (orange dial), and F6692/5 (black dial with different hands and hour markers). Price is about $130.
Slim watches are very chic right now. The diminutive profile on your wrist keeps the watch barley noticeable by the wearer. As fas as slim watches go, anything under 8mm tall on your wrist is considered very thin for a mechanical watch. Quartz watch slimness on the other hand… well that is another story.
The Chopard L.U.C. XP Ultra-Slim has a lot going for it. The “flat on your wrist” watch houses a splendid, just over 3mm high,Replica rolex, in-house L.U.C. automatic movement with a power reserve of 70 hours. Such a long power reserve in this thin watch is achieved through having two (basically flattened) barrels. The 3.3mm of the movement is very slim for an automatic movement because of the added space the rotor requires over a manually wound movement. The watch itself is only 6.8mm high, and about 39.5mm wide. Next, the L.U.C. XP has that beautifully “size-less” look to it. Meaning that you could blow it up to the size of a wall, or evening building clock, and it would look good. Here you can have very bold handsome looks on your wrist with a timeless design.
The new color for this Basel World is the slate gray face, with a rose gold (or steel) case. This should prove to be the favored classy watch among many for the right types of events. Unlike most slim mechanical watches, the Chopard L.U.C. is an automatic, which alleviates the need to constantly self wind the watch. Thus you can place the watch on your winder and be sure that it will be ready for use whenever you need.
See .
As you know aBlogtoRead.com has been currently working to make itself at home on a new, more powerful server. The initial migration was only partially successful. Which is why aBlogtoRead.com currently has limited functionality. For instance you can’t contact me vial e-mail here,http://www.easternmarket-dc.org/img/uc/English/googlebot/page_7.html, though there is always Twitter.
The short of it is that aBlogtoRead.com will be experiencing more down time this weekend. 48 hours max, on and off. So wish me luck, and know that all of this will be cleared up soon. I won’t stop until it is back at 110%. I’ll be back with more watch love so very soon.
As a fan of their work, we try to promote the products of boutique German watch maker? whenever possible. The very niche brand offers up some unique creations which we’ve loved in the past. New for 2013, Temption will debut the simple CM01 watch. A minimalist three-hand automatic with a serious cyclops magnifier for the date. Rolex popularized the magnifier window to make reading the date easier. Since then these have been controversial from a style perspective. The one on the CM01 is said to make the date window appear quite large. In recent years we’ve seen very few cyclops magnifier windows.
The simple steel case is 43mm wide and under 10mm thick. It contains a Swiss ETA 2892 or Soprod equivalent automatic movement – which is always decorated nicely. The minimalist dial is legible and attractive,http://www.ckm.gen.tr/rolex/page_3.html, though in my opinion the hands are too short. Temption’s Klaus Ulrbrich doesn’t often produce hands which are too short so I am curious as to why it happened here. Like all Temption watches there will be a cabochon in the crown which is onyx in this CM01 watch. Attached to it will be a simple, soft black calf leather strap. The Temption CM01 is certainly a simple and subdued Temption piece, making it perhaps their first dress watch. Price will be $1,940.
Name : CM01
Movement : ETA2892A2 or Soprod A1
Case : D 43mm , height 9,8mm
Bottom : screwed with sapphire window
Top : Sapphire . Cyclops eye ground into sapphire
Crown : screwed with Onyx Cabochon
Strap : calf leather with deployant clasp
Water resistance : 10Bar
Price : 1480 ? (1940 US$)
In 1983 began a design partnership with Italian designer Giorgetto Giugiaro that resulted in the production of a few very interesting pieces in the mid 1980s. For 2013 Seiko has begun a re-issue of these timepieces starting with the first model – the Seiko 7A28 6000. We can’t say for sure, but we have a feeling more 1980s Giugiaro watches are coming. Giugiaro is most well-known for his automotive designs, including that of the famous DeLorean DMC-12, along with literally dozens and dozens of other cars. For the most part, the watches he designed for Seiko are spectacular and highly indicative of what 1980s futuristic design was all about. It was European, it was modern, and it alluded to a future that seemed to be as frightening as it was exciting. Seiko’s Giugiaro watches gained the most fame by being featured in James Cameron’s Aliens movie in 1986. Both Sigourney Weaver’s character Lt. Ripley and Lance Henriksen’s character, the android Bishop, wore Giugiaro designed Seiko watches (different models).
In honor of the 30th anniversary of the partnership with Giugiaro, Seiko has released six limited edition “re-issues” of the original 7A28 6000 watch that Bishop wore in the Aliens movie. In the early 1980s Seiko released a few of these models, but for 2013 Seiko is releasing a few new colors that have never before been produced. The most famous model of course will be the black and red version (today the SCED003). The new watches will be limited to either 500 or 200 pieces depending on the model.
The limited edition collection will be within the Seiko Spirit sub-brand and are technically called the Seiko x Giugiaro 30th Anniversary Spirit Smart watches. Of course they are not exactly the same as the originals,omega replica, as there are slight design changes, including the precise dimensions of the case as well as the movement. The original for example featured an early 1980s Seiko quartz chronograph movement with a 1/100 of a second dial. The 2013 versions of the watch include one of the newer Seiko quartz movements (the caliber 7T12) with a 60 minute chronograph, synchronized 24 hour hand (AM/PM) indicator, and the date (covertly placed at 3 o’clock). To be honest, the original is a bit more slick looking, but good luck getting one.
Another difference is the placement of the crown. The original had two crowns on the left side of the case and two chronograph pushers on the right side The modern version has a single crown and both pushers on the right, which is to be expected. The most important thing is that thematically, the watches are the same. The design with interesting recessed chronograph counters and asymmetric cases are all there. We even get a return of the colorful plastic chronograph pushers.
Just announced is the new watch brand with their first watch… the 2LMX. I think a model name will come later. The super cool mechanical timepiece is one of those things that helps me explain to people what I do when they ask “how is it that you write at least once a day on watches,http://www.centralillustration.com/projects/images/fonts/img/page_4.html?” Because cool stuff like this keeps coming out. The watch is the brainchild of Arnaud Tellier. He is the former head of the Geneva Patek Philippe museum.
Interesting that he and his pals went futuristic after he resided over classic and vintage pieces for so long. The 2LMX watch reminds me of the Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical watch (a lot). These watches share concepts including the overall design. They both have vertically mounted tourbillons, they both have split dials, and they both have highly exposed cases and movements. More than a little bit of credit goes to Jean-Francois Ruchonnet for this design.
The 2LMX movement uses four drums (two of them have drums within the drums) to indicate time digitally. The system is incredibly neat to see in action. You can see a . The drums within drums concept allows them to indicate 10 digits in a limited space. Plus, the watch only tells them time in a 24 hour format.
Looking down at the watch you can see the movement gears and tourbillon moving all the time. Really a good piece for gear-heads. The movement is manually wound with a power reserve of 120 hours (pretty good). It also has a slick constant force system needed for changing the drums around without losing amplitude. I really love the look of the movement – which you can thankfully see though the various sapphire crystal windows.
2LMX’s watch case is 41mm wide by about 50mm tall. 2LMX will produce the watch in titanium, platinum, white gold, and pink gold. They will also make custom watches for you – but then again the base models are going to cost a fortune as well. The strap is either black or white rubber as well a other options such as alligator or leather. Super cool, expensive (not sure yet), and available in 2012.
The Bremont / Boeing Partnership Takes Off With Two New Models. When Bremont and Boeing announced their partnership earlier this year it was widely recognised as one of the most authentic collaborations of recent times. Perhaps there was even a little bit of dignified eny by others in the industry who wondered how ¡°little guys¡± Bremont managed to seal a deal with the world¡¯s largest aircraft manufacturer. Maybe the answer to this particular conundrum lies with Bremont¡¯s heritage of aviation, their refreshing enthusiasm for their youthful company and their love for all things mechanical.
Bremont Boeing Model 1 and Model 247 – Accuracy and Innovation
Bremont were founded in 2002 by two brothers, Nick and Giles English. Both are qualified pilots,http://www.easternmarket-dc.org/img/uc/English/googlebot/page_9.html, both have an obsession with historic aircraft. In just 12 years, they have built a portfolio of small series precision timekeepers each of which is COSC certified for accuracy and have conceived some very innovative features including their Trip-Tick? case construction which ensures that each piece is virtually indestructible. Their aphorism ¡°Tested Beyond Endurance¡± is not just a tagline, but is one which they take very seriously giving each of their models a boot-camp style testing procedure.
A previous collaboration with Marin Baker, the ejection seat manufacturers give rise to the Bremont MBI and MBII models, both engineered to survive the forces experienced in the extreme situation of an emergency ejector seat evacuation. They also gained the attention of fellow historic aviation enthusiasts with their P-51 model which uses in its construction, genuine fuselage aluminium from the Second World War P-51 Mustang aircraft.
Bremont Boeing Model 1 and Model 247 – New Watchmaking Materials
With their partnership with Boeing, Bremont hope to capture an even wider fan base but they have much to bring to this arrangement. The collection to which both marques add their name will use Boeing Ti-64 aircraft grade titanium and a special 465? stainless steel provided by Boeing. The steel is reputably similar to that which is used to make the undercarriages of F-18s and jumbo jets, and is therefore highly resistant to scratches and corrosion. These materials, are evidence that Boeing are not content with being a ¡°silent partner¡± in this relationship, but want to be involved at the technical end also.
Two new models have been released in this series so far, both featuring classical understated styling. The Bremont Boeing Model 1 is powered by the BE-36AE automatic chronometer movement producing a power reserve of 38 hours. On the dial diminutive numerals leave plenty of empty dial space at the centre. The case side is slightly sculpted to offer protection to the crown, which with its 4 o¡¯clock position forms an affinity with the neat little date window at the 4.30 location. The Bremont Boeing Model 247 is powered by the BE-50AE automatic chronometer movement providing 42 hours of power reserve. It keeps the same clean, uncluttered styling as the Model 1, but with the addition of two subtle counters, for the seconds and for the 30 minutes.
Bremont Boeing Model 1 and Model 247 – Subtle Branding
Both new models have the option of 465? stainless steel or Boeing Ti-64 aircraft grade titanium cases sized at 43mm across and a choice of black or white metal dials. Despite the marketing potential for both companies the ¡°Boeing¡± in these models is surprisingly low-key. Both models feature the Boeing logo on the caseback and have Bremont Boeing moulded, skeletonised and decorated rotors and on the dial, both feature a charming little Boeing stylised overhang on the central sweep seconds hand.
The Bremont Boeing Model 1 and Model 247 will be available for purchase in winter 2014 around $6,000.
All watch enthusiasts appreciate a storied timepiece. As passionate purveyors of obsolete timekeeping technology, it is simply in our nature to put a value on the history of our prized mechanical watches as well as the quality and craftsmanship behind them. This is why feats of human endurance for which our timepieces have been present and have withstood (even if they aren¡¯t our specific timepieces, or our personal feats of endurance) mean so much to us. These are the stories that sell Submariners and Seamasters by the truckload.
Of course, nautical feats aren¡¯t the only ones to capture the attention of watch enthusiasts; there is also the sky and the stars. Aviation and space exploration have long been the stuff dreams are made of, and even in the modern age of regular commuter flights, automated drones, supersonic jet fighters and impending commercial space travel, man¡¯s ascent into the heavens still captivates the imagination. Timepieces have, of course, been designed to aid man in these exploits since the last world war, and collectors lust after purpose-built models with a genuine connection to the history of flight.
Amongst the , Breitling Cosmonautes and which collectors prize, there is also the Sinn 140 which is sought after by collectors because it was the first automatic chronograph known to be worn in space on the wrist of German Astronaut Reinhard Furrer during the Spacelab D1 mission in 1985. To this day, Sinn is generally recognized for being the first automatic chronograph used in space, and enjoys plenty of popularity and collector loyalty for that achievement.
Interestingly, over twenty years after the Spacelab D1 mission, it came to light that Sinn was in fact not the first automatic chronograph worn in space ¨C that honor goes to a cheap, mass produced, ¡®70s Seiko. The discovery occurred in 2007 when an eagle-eyed timepiece enthusiast spotted a 6139-6002 on the wrist of Colonel Pogue, an astronaut on a NASA mission dubbed Skylab 4. After an investigation and correspondence with the retired astronaut, suspicions were confirmed, forever changing the history of timepieces and the Space Program.
In 1973, Colonel William Pogue brought his Seiko 6139 Automatic Chronograph on board the Skylab 4 mission as part of his personal kit. He had purchased the watch from the PX at Ellington AFB, and although the watch wasn¡¯t Flight-Approved by NASA, he was allowed to bring it on the flight.
The Skylab 4 mission was manned by Pogue, along with astronauts Gerald Carr and Edward Gibson,fake omega watches, and was the third and final manned mission on the United States¡¯ first space station. During the 84-day flight, the astronauts performed experiments pertaining to human endurance in zero gravity, along with observation of the earth, sun, and the Comet Kohoutek. While the mission was ultimately a success, the Skylab project was scrapped as NASA¡¯s shuttle program got underway.
Although the 6139 was never formally approved for mission use, Pogue stated that his operated flawlessly during his time in space. While he never performed an EVA Spacewalk with the Seiko on his wrist (he used a NASA approved for that task), he did use the Seiko to time engine burns. As his story goes, he had been training with the Seiko for six months to a year before the mission launched, as he hadn¡¯t been issued his Speedmaster until late in the process, and had grown familiar with the Seiko, so brought it along without seeking official approval from the NASA brass.
Technically speaking, the Seiko 6139-6002 is a very simple timepiece, and was Seiko¡¯s first attempt at making a mass-produced automatic chronograph model. The watch has a 30-minute counter in a single subsidiary register located at 6 o¡¯clock, along with a day and date indicator at 3 o¡¯clock, but lacks any additional registers and a sweep seconds function. Most notably, the 6139-6002 features an internally rotating bezel with tachymetre scale, operated via the crown. The 6139 range was offered with a variety of case shapes and dial variations, but the yellow-dialed version you see here has become the most iconic.
The discovery of the ¡°Pogue Connection¡± prompted a buying frenzy amongst collectors back in 2007, and values on 6139s doubled just about overnight. Colonel Pogue decided to sell his personal watch at auction in 2008, hammering for just under $6000 (all proceeds went to Astronaut Scholarship Foundation).
Today, values on ¡°standard¡± 6139s are still some of the best in the market when it comes to vintage chronographs. Due to their mass production, decent original examples can be found for $400-$500. Rougher examples, and pieces with aftermarket replacement parts are very commonly found for about half that. Regardless, a 6139 is a great affordable point of entry for a beginning collector, and the watches have a genuine (albeit unofficial) connection to the Space Program.
More resources about the Seiko 6139 on , and How to Buy Guide on .
The expanding interest in fine watches among women has not gone unnoticed by fine watchmakers. As undeniable proof, there are not only more serious watches now available for women, but many watch brands are devoting entire collections¡ªand not only of the high-jewelry variety¡ªto ladies. Rather than simply dressing up a more diminutive version of a man¡¯s watch with a sprinkle of diamonds and a colorful strap (not that there¡¯s anything at all wrong with that), these ¡°new¡± watches have a feminine sensibility as well as many of the watchmaking bells and whistles that have so long been reserved mostly for men. And why not? It¡¯s never good business to ignore a viable segment of the market¡ªespecially one with disposable income to match its enthusiasm.
Thus I was really intrigued to learn that watchmaker extraordinaire , whose motto is Invenit et Fecit (Latin for, He invented it and made it.), was offering his first ladies collection. While introducing the watch in Geneva in January (it will be available in May), Mr. Journe explained that the F.P. Journe Elegante, as it is named, took eight years of research to develop the electro-mechanical movement alone. According to the company, the watch offers the wearer about 10 years of use when worn and up to 18 years in standby mode. Standby mode?
Interestingly, the F.P. Journe Elegante features a mechanical motion detector visible on the dial somewhere between 4 and 5 o¡¯clock. When the watch is not in use, it stops after about 30 minutes. While in standby, the microprocessor continues to keep time, but the gears, rotors and hands stop moving to conserve energy. When the watch is again worn, it automatically sets itself to the correct time. The coolest part, again in the pursuit of saving energy, is that the watch hands will take the shortest path to the correct time¡ªeither clockwise or counter clockwise. All the mechanical elements of the F.P. Journe Elegante movement are manufactured by F.P. Journe¡¯s Geneva-based manufactory, while the electronic components were developed by a Swiss engineer and also made in Switzerland.
The case comes in platinum, red gold (with a black dial) and titanium, each with diamond options on the case and dial, and the smooth rubber strap, bezel and case accents come in complementary colors according to the metal. The platinum case is paired with midnight blue, while the red gold version is complemented by ¡°chocolate.¡± The titanium watch tops out at seven strap-color options: white, rose, midnight blue, chocolate, light blue, burgundy and khaki green. The dial features highly legible Arabic numerals, with small seconds at 6 o¡¯clock. The titanium watch has a luminescent dial that seems to light from its very soul.
I must say that I¡¯m impressed with the many details of this watch, which is fitted with a sapphire case back to view the movement. No doubt as a nod to its feminine audience, a heart is visible at the location of the microprocessor¡ªthe heart of the watch, according to Mr. Journe. The engraving on the back reads, F.P. Journe, Ivenit et Fecit, ¨¦l¨¦gante,http://www.easternmarket-dc.org/img/uc/English/googlebot/page_5.html, Calibre 1210, Geneva Made, 18 Jewels. It also states, ¡°exclusive and patented system.¡± The electro-mechanical movement has a patented two-rotor motor and a quartz frequency of 32000Hz.
So is this really just another quartz watch for women¡ªa pandering appeal to our collective reputation for disliking the winding and setting involved in a manually wound mechanical watch? Not in my opinion. I give it five stars for its thoughtful design, inventive use of technology and impeccable pedigree¡ªnot to mention its accuracy, which, after all, is a big part of keeping time.
More resources about the F.P. Journe Elegante available on ?(Hands-On).
July 20, 2009 was the 40th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing mission that famously made… the Omega Speedmaster Professional watch world famous. Oh yea, and it was cool that we landed on the moon as well. Trust me, on each occasion that can be fathomably possible, Omega relishes in its [past] achievements. Why should Omega have all the fun though? There are other watches companies, and others that can work to celebrate humanity’s victory over our Earthly prison!
The most obvious type of watch to include playful lunar features are of course moon phase watches, and the most appropriate are those watches with larger moon phase indicators. I’ve seen moon phases with a moon display that is plain, those that try to emulate the look of the surface of the moon, those that have all sorts of playful or characterful faces, and thenthe? displays like this that celebrate the moon landing. This watch is a one-off, meaning that there will only be one of them. It is based on higher production watch though, which is the . With some changed colors,http://www.ckm.gen.tr/rolex/page_9.html, a unique caseback engraving, and the foot print on the “moon surface,” this watch also nods to the Apollo 11 mission on the year of its 40th anniversary, with this watch to be auctioned-off at the Only Watch 2009 event in Monaco this year held in September. The watch is in 18k rose gold and is 46.5mm wide with an in-house Piaget Caliber 860P automatic movement. It is not clear what the auction price will be for the watch, but when you combine wealthy people with medical related philanthropic charity events, and mix in alcohol – the money starts to flow, oh yes…
Set perfectly on the heated gold cratered moon phase display, is the iconic space-suit footprint made by first man on the moon Neil Armstrong, and immortalized forever as the “footprint of humanity” conquering alien worlds. It feels extremely cheesy saying it now, but it really was a bit step for humankind even though the moon represents only a marginal victory in what will be a great history of space travel. I really hope that future generations never decide to ignorantly mine the moon for resources and significantly alter its mass, as I imagine that would have grave effects on the importance of the moon’s gravitational pull on Earth – we can save activity like that for Mars. We’ll wait until September to see how all the Only Watch 2009 watches did at auction. I am glad that Piaget’s addition to the event is both beautiful and interesting.
See .
This rare watch isn’t one that you are likely to find at your local Tissot dealer. In their T-Gold collection, this Sculpture Line Skeleton watch comes in a 45mm wide 18k yellow or rose gold case. As a side note, did you know that Tissot makes 18k gold versions of their T-Touch watches? I had no idea, but they do. Yea, not only that but they also can come on gold bracelets – even in platinum too!
Tissot begins with a Swiss ETA Unitas 6497 manually wound mechanical movement. This movement is often chosen when skeletonization is called for as you can really scrape out a lot of its guts to see how it all works. It even helps the basic movement look extremely beautiful when artfully skeletonized and engraved. What Tissot did here is clever. Offer a fully skeletonized watch, but one that is also still legible. The dial of the piece is more or less in tact when it comes to having all of the hour and minute indicators. Coming with a black or silver dial, Tissot uses sporty looking Roman numerals and a full scale of minutes as well as even the 24 hour time. Cut into the dial is an opening that looks like an upside down mushroom. This window does not interfere with telling the time, and gives you a view right into the movement.
Over on the rear of the watch (through the sapphire exhibition window) is a more complete view into the skeletonization and decoration process. In my opinion it is very classy and tasteful and one of Tissot’s top Sculpture Line pieces. It is even suitable as a daily wearer if you don’t mind manually wound watches. One thing that isn’t clear to me is how the crocodile strap fits to the case. In some images it has a more traditional straight end that sits between the lugs close to,Rolex replica, but not touching the case. In other images, it uses a fitted strap that conforms to the shape of the case. I just don’t know which one is actually used.
Price for the Tissot beauty? Not really sure. I would imagine $5,000 – $8,000 most likely. While this is expensive given the price of most Tissot timepieces, the price will be rather reasonable given the movement decoration and 18k gold case. UPDATE: Retail price for the timepiece is $7,250.
I think there must be something in the water in Switzerland. How else could you explain the multitude of, well, non-traditional complications getting placed into mechanical watches lately? While I hadn’t heard of Da Vindice previously, their latest model certainly made me take notice. They’ve taken something that I’ve only previously seen implemented in fully digital outdoors watches (ie, the Casio ProTrek line) and paired it with a, dare I say, whimsical tourbillon implementation.
The function in question is a barometer and it is part of the 2014 Da Vindice Tourbillon Barometer timepiece. This is very similar in concept to the. You know, those things that are susceptible (by design) to changes in atmospheric pressure, and give a rudimentary sort of a local forecast? As a weather-telling device, barometers have always been fascinating to me. Implementing one into a wristwatch may not be the most logical thing to do, but it does make more sense than a temperature gauge (which requires you to have the watch off of your wrist for some time to get an accurate reading).
To enable this bit of weatherman wizardry, they’ve put a hermetically sealed capsule (which has a partial vacuum) to sense the changes in pressure; the readout shows up in the gauge at 6 o’clock. Somehow, they managed to build this in while retaining a modicum of water resistance (rated to 30 meters). This surprised me some, as I imagine that some portion of the case must be open to the atmosphere to allow the barometer to work. Then again, I’m no weather guru, so perhaps there’s other ways around this (unfortunately, the information available to me on the watch doesn’t really clarify things).
Ok,fake rolex for sale, enough about the barometer¨C the first of the big circles hitting the dial. Next up, let’s have a look at the whimsical tourbillon. As we all have read (or experienced first-hand), watching a tourbillon at work is quite interesting. Think about the first time you saw a balance wheel at work in a mechanical movement¨C that was really something else, wasn’t it? Now, jump to the tourbillon, and you’ve got (literally) another dimension of movement churning away, and the enjoyment of watching it only increases. With the tourbillon, as they’re often shown off on the dial, they’re put to work reading out the small-seconds display.
For the (yup, that’s the name of the piece), Da Vindice has gone ahead and put an open-worked fleur de lys on top to indicate those seconds (as well as carry the brand logo). I like this, as it mixes up the standard arrowhead (which has innumerable variations), and marries practical use, design, and a bit of showmanship, all in one little piece. Next to it, a simple date display would simply disappear, generally. To ensure that doesn’t happen here, we’ve got a pair of offset circles, giving us a sort of oblong look to the readout. Normally I’m not a fan of date displays like these, but here it kind of works. Or, to put it another way, if I had to have a display like this, it might as well be visually intriguing (which this one is).
Rounding things out (for readouts) you’ve got a power reserve display smack on top of the 10 o’clock marker. Which reminds me – isn’t this watch supposed to tell time as well? It does, though I’ll admit it took me a bit to figure out how it was doing so. With the dial as busy as it is, the short blued hands (which are pointed to 8:15) disappear a bit on the dial. Which is a bit of a shame, considering the case is pretty massive (54 x 59mm), so one could hope for a slightly larger handset that makes it easier to read the time.
Then again, if you’re picking up a luxury timepiece like this (the price is north of 150,000 CHF), you probably don’t mind spending a little bit of extra time reviewing the dial, watching the tourbillon cage spin round and round, and then finally double-checking if there’s rain on the way, like the forecast said there would be. For all that’s packed into the watch, it’s about as well of a layout and presentation as I think you could hope for (without heading to the digital realm). Then again, this is a pretty massive piece, so it’s definitely going to be making a statement for you, whether or not you want it to. I just hope that the venn diagram of WIS and weather enthusiasts has a generous overlap to it.
Tech Specs from Da Vindice
What does it take for one to spend about $7,000 – $10,000 (or more) on a quartz chronograph watch? And I mean an educated watch lover who knows about movements and isn’t just buying for looks? Is there such a watch? Maybe… and maybe it is something like this Mysterious Chronograph. Certainly a rare breed,http://www.ckm.gen.tr/rolex/page_2.html, Quinting is a Swiss brand that makes all quartz movements, I mean mysterious quartz movements.
The Quinting Mysterious Chronograph is really of the more complicated watches that Quinting makes. The actual name of it is pretty strange as it is called the “Quinting Chronograph Mysterious Quinting.” Don’t ask, I don’t understand either.? The movements they produce are actually located in the bezel of the watch and involve a series of motors that turn sapphire crystal discs. The discs move the hands. As the chronograph models have a lot of hands, the watch movement gets really complicated. The chronograph movement for example utilizes 13 separate discs in the dial. You can see right through the dial to your wrist, and the entire mechanism is hidden in the periphery of the watch case – neat.
One thing I still don’t get is how you read the AM/PM indicator and date. The scales are located on the flange ring, but what do you use to read it? The centrally mounted hand should be for the chronograph hours and seconds. The only thing I can guess is that pressing one of the pushers (or something like that) temporarily re-purposes one of the hands for the date and day/night indication.
After developing the chronograph movement Quinting has placed it in a large range of models. The 43mm wide watch comes in steel or various types of gold with many different style and decoration options. There are also a lot of diamond and precious stone options as well for the bezel and case. One additional decorative thing Quinting sometimes does is place an image inside of the dial (as you can see one of the watches here has a done in the dial).
As far as niche watches go, these are for very special collectors. I must say that having experienced Quinting watches hands-on, they are cool and well made – but also pricey given the lust most people have for mechanical watches, and given what quartz watches tend to go for. However, while these are quartz based movements, they are totally unique and no one else uses this patented technology. It is also one of the things that you can only do with electronic watches, which helps justify the use of the technology.
Bamford for Dr Romanelli: Are You a Hairdresser Looking For The Perfect Rolex? You’re Welcome.
That zany crew over at the Rolex chop shop Bamford have done it again. This time they’ve focussed their attentions on a Rolex Milgauss; in addition to the usual PVD coating they’ve replaced the usual Milgauss hands with some scissors. Why? Well because this watch is obviously a homage to a fashion designer (with an exceptionally ) named Dr Romanelli. Oh, and his logo is also on the dial. Talk about classy.
Via (and thanks to Nick for the heads up)
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The Pilot’s Watch Spitfire Edition is the second watch produced by IWC to commemorate its partnership with the Tribeca Film Festival. Last year we had , a limited edition Portuguese Automatic, which came in a limited edition of 100 steel pieces and a unique platinum piece. The platinum unique piece was estimated between $20,000 and $30,000, but ended up selling for $60,000 at the Antiquorum auction.
The IWC Pilot¡¯s Watch Spitfire Chronograph Edition ¡°Tribeca Film Festival 2014¡± will be auctioned at on April 9, 2014. The watch is part of a larger package including VIP access to the Tribeca Film Festival, luxury hotel accommodation, and an invitation to IWC¡¯s “For the love of Cinema¡± private dinner.
For more information, visit .
Friday March 3, 2012
HODINKEE is one of the most widely read wristwatch publications in the world. Launched in 2008 by then 25-year-old Benjamin Clymer, the site quickly gained notoriety for earnest looks at some of the industry¡¯s most interesting, and occasionally forgotten timepieces.
VIDEO: Design Agency Demonstrates Innovative Touch Sensitive Filming Using 1960s Rolex Oyster Precision
? Well London creative agency has taken existing cinematic techniques and produced a similar result to a Lytro photograph, but with a much more detailed and exact interface. And, they happened to demonstrate it using a 1960s Rolex Oyster Precision. Watch the video above to see what we mean..
What I also really like about this watch, and most JLC’s in fact, is its price. This guy, when it hits stores in September, will sell for $10,800. That’s $1,900 less than and also less than the Rolex Daytona. This is a very, very fair price for an in-house chronograph from a real watchmaker in Jaeger-LeCoultre, and the thing ain’t bad looking either. This is the first deviation from the “vintage” theme for JLC’s Deep Sea line, and it’s a great step forward. I can’t wait to see how this line will evolve over time but in the mean time, if you’re considering an automatic chronograph in the near future, you’ll definitely want to wait till September to at least put your hands on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph before buying anything else.
View official details , and gallery and specs below.
But, on the new white-metal 5170, we also see a new dial. This time instead of the opaline white dial with hash-marks and roman numerals at 12 and 6, we see Breguet markers all the way around. Again, not a huge change but to Patek nuts, the devil is in the details and this move will absolutely be studied by thousands of die-hards.
Pricing on the Patek Philippe 5170G will be $87,100 when it hits stores later this year.
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Just Because: An Aerial Look At The Vall¨¦e de Joux (VIDEO)
. We spent time at both their Geneva headquarters and their factory in the famous . How did we get from Geneva to the Vallée? We took a helicopter, how else? Here you can see just what the Vallée de Joux looks like from a bird’s eye view. If you look closely (around :44) you can see the site where Vacheron will be build its new factory, doubling the brand’s footprint in the region.Below is another short video showing us leaving the Vacheron Constantin factory and flying back to Geneva.